A picture of the front entrance to Sunrise Restaurant.
‘Ono Okinawa

Explore the eateries that bring delicious Okinawan fare to O‘ahu.

Text By
Eunica Escalante
Images By
John Hook
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Thick slabs of pork belly marinated in black sugar and soy sauce; delicate cubes of tofu stir-fried into the sharp taste of bitter melon; a broth of fresh mushrooms and thin, tender strips of pork stomach—dishes such as these have been enjoyed in Okinawa for hundreds of years. The fare has bold flavors cultivated from centuries of cross-cultural influence from China and Southeast Asia and has been considered the cause of Okinawans’ longer than average lifespans. Yet it is often overshadowed by more familiar Japanese cuisine. Though Okinawa has been a part of Japan since 1879, the country’s cuisine is distinct from that of mainland Japan. In fact, it more closely resembles Chinese cooking, a result of the islands’ cultural and political connections to China prior to its Japanese annexation. The result is a menu with a heavy emphasis on pork, considered the essence of Okinawan food. Its geographic location also lends a lush subtropical climate where a range of vegetables thrive. Okinawans immigrated to Hawai‘i at the turn of the 20th century. While restaurants specializing in Okinawan cuisine are still few and far between, the fare of these O‘ahu eateries will satisfy any visitor craving a taste of Okinawa.

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An older couple sitting across from each other.
An older couple sitting across from each other.

‘Ono Okinawa

Season 6 Episode 5
Watch Episode
Two trays filled with food—placed in a dining booth.

‘Ono Okinawa

Season 6 Episode 5
Watch Episode
Two trays filled with food—placed in a dining booth.

Sunrise Restaurant

A picture of the front entrance to Sunrise Restaurant.
A flat lay image of sushi and oxtail soup.

Okinawa’s cuisine is distinct from that of mainland Japan.

The simple exterior of Sunrise Restaurant looks unassuming among the glowing neon lights that dot Kapahulu Avenue. Situated around the corner from Hawai‘i icons like Rainbow Drive-In and Leonard’s Bakery, it is easy to miss. But owner and chef Chokatsu Tamayose is not interested in drawing in long lines of hungry tourists. His clientele is smaller, more exclusive.

Stepping inside, I’m struck by how homey the restaurant feels. The atmosphere gives the impression of visiting a relative’s house for dinner. Family pictures and personal memorabilia decorate the walls. Okinawan folk music plays over the speakers. As I pore over the menu, I am engulfed by conversations in Japanese, and I realize that I am the only non-Japanese speaker in the place.

Sunrise was opened in 1999 by Chokatsu and his aunt Kiyo Irei. Today, he runs the restaurant with his wife, Tomoko Tamayose. They serve a pared-down menu of Okinawan dishes similar to those Chokatsu grew up eating. The oxtail soup is lovingly prepared, resulting in tender meat that falls off the bone. Its Okinawan soba, unlike Japanese soba, is made with thick wheat flour noodles that resemble udon and has a light broth garnished simply with green onions and a slice of rafute, or shoyu pork.

Each plate has the option of a side of sushi, which Chokatsu rolls by hand. Thick slabs of the day’s catch line his sushi station, and guests who choose to sit at the bar can watch the chef prepare each piece by hand. Chokatsu makes a limited amount of each dish every day, but there is no need to worry. If one’s first choice runs out, Tomoko has a lineup of other dishes to suggest.

A picture of the front entrance to Sunrise Restaurant.
A flat lay image of sushi and oxtail soup.
Okinawa’s cuisine is distinct from that of mainland Japan.

The simple exterior of Sunrise Restaurant looks unassuming among the glowing neon lights that dot Kapahulu Avenue. Situated around the corner from Hawai‘i icons like Rainbow Drive-In and Leonard’s Bakery, it is easy to miss. But owner and chef Chokatsu Tamayose is not interested in drawing in long lines of hungry tourists. His clientele is smaller, more exclusive.

Stepping inside, I’m struck by how homey the restaurant feels. The atmosphere gives the impression of visiting a relative’s house for dinner. Family pictures and personal memorabilia decorate the walls. Okinawan folk music plays over the speakers. As I pore over the menu, I am engulfed by conversations in Japanese, and I realize that I am the only non-Japanese speaker in the place.

Sunrise was opened in 1999 by Chokatsu and his aunt Kiyo Irei. Today, he runs the restaurant with his wife, Tomoko Tamayose. They serve a pared-down menu of Okinawan dishes similar to those Chokatsu grew up eating. The oxtail soup is lovingly prepared, resulting in tender meat that falls off the bone. Its Okinawan soba, unlike Japanese soba, is made with thick wheat flour noodles that resemble udon and has a light broth garnished simply with green onions and a slice of rafute, or shoyu pork.

Each plate has the option of a side of sushi, which Chokatsu rolls by hand. Thick slabs of the day’s catch line his sushi station, and guests who choose to sit at the bar can watch the chef prepare each piece by hand. Chokatsu makes a limited amount of each dish every day, but there is no need to worry. If one’s first choice runs out, Tomoko has a lineup of other dishes to suggest.

Izakaya Naru

Izakaya Naru is one of those special eateries stumbled upon on while exploring the city, a well-kept secret where a worldly patron brings friends to toast awamori, Okinawa’s version of shochu, and share platters of grilled beef tongue well into the night. It is a place that leaves guests sated and with maybe too much Orion, the unofficial beer of Okinawa, in the belly.

In the past decade, izakayas have popped up across Honolulu. These restaurants gained popularity in Japan as a casual place to grab drinks and chat over tapas-style dishes after work. Part of a restaurant chain with nine locations across Japan, Izakaya Naru has a rustic aesthetic with an all-wood interior, polished wooden tables, and low stools covered in traditional Japanese-print cloth.

When I arrive, the folk music can hardly be heard over the hum of conversation. The place is intimate, holding no more than 30 guests, which means it often requires reservations. But the experience and fare are certainly worth the wait.

I ordered one of its specialties, taco rice, which is another example of foreign influence on Okinawan cuisine. With the establishment of American military bases in Okinawa after World War II came an introduction of Western dishes. Soon, the popular American take on tacos featuring heavily seasoned ground meat was adapted by local chefs. At Izakaya Naru, spiced ground meat, raw egg, and taco fixings of shredded cabbage, onions, tomatoes, and cheese are mixed with rice and served sizzling in a stone bowl. Rounding out my meal is a helping of awamori, a distilled, rice-based liquor. Izakaya Naru’s awamori is made in-house in several flavors and can be ordered in flights, a must for first timers.

A shot of inside the Izakaya Naru restaurant.

Local Okinawan eateries cater to all families looking for a traditional food experience.

A display of Bibimbap, a korean dish.

Okinawan dishes frequently include pork, but cooked and served in a variety of ways.

Izakaya Naru is one of those special eateries stumbled upon on while exploring the city, a well-kept secret where a worldly patron brings friends to toast awamori, Okinawa’s version of shochu, and share platters of grilled beef tongue well into the night. It is a place that leaves guests sated and with maybe too much Orion, the unofficial beer of Okinawa, in the belly.

In the past decade, izakayas have popped up across Honolulu. These restaurants gained popularity in Japan as a casual place to grab drinks and chat over tapas-style dishes after work. Part of a restaurant chain with nine locations across Japan, Izakaya Naru has a rustic aesthetic with an all-wood interior, polished wooden tables, and low stools covered in traditional Japanese-print cloth.

When I arrive, the folk music can hardly be heard over the hum of conversation. The place is intimate, holding no more than 30 guests, which means it often requires reservations. But the experience and fare are certainly worth the wait.

I ordered one of its specialties, taco rice, which is another example of foreign influence on Okinawan cuisine. With the establishment of American military bases in Okinawa after World War II came an introduction of Western dishes. Soon, the popular American take on tacos featuring heavily seasoned ground meat was adapted by local chefs. At Izakaya Naru, spiced ground meat, raw egg, and taco fixings of shredded cabbage, onions, tomatoes, and cheese are mixed with rice and served sizzling in a stone bowl. Rounding out my meal is a helping of awamori, a distilled, rice-based liquor. Izakaya Naru’s awamori is made in-house in several flavors and can be ordered in flights, a must for first timers.

A shot of inside the Izakaya Naru restaurant.
Local Okinawan eateries cater to all families looking for a traditional food experience.
A display of Bibimbap, a korean dish.
Okinawan dishes frequently include pork, but cooked and served in a variety of ways.

Utage Restaurant and Lounge

A close up of a pork dish.

Izakawaya have popped up across Honolulu and are favored for their casual ambience.

When I arrive, Utage Restaurant and Lounge is packed, as it often is during the weekday lunch hour. The restaurant is filled with regulars as well as newcomers who, like me, have been ushered in by friends’ recommendations.

Utage is Japanese for “gathering place.” One of the more popular Okinawan restaurants in Honolulu, it has lived up to its namesake. Located in the heart of Kalihi, Utage has served Okinawan fare since it was opened by owner Jocelyn Koshimoto in 2001.

Pork is the preferred protein in Okinawa. “Every meal begins with pork and ends with pork,” an Okinawan proverb states. In Okinawan fashion, visitors to Utage can choose from a variety of pork-based meals. There is the rafute, or shoyu pork, for which the restaurant is best known. The thick cuts of pork belly are slow-cooked in black sugar and soy sauce before being served on a bed of white rice or in a stir-fry. For those wanting lesser known dishes, there is nakami, thin slices of pig stomach cooked simply with onion and sugar, served in stir-fry or a broth of mushrooms with konyaku, a chewy, gelatinous garnish made from konjac potatoes. Of course, no Okinawan menu would be complete without the signature pig’s feet dish. At Utage, a generous portion of pig’s feet is served in a soup of daikon (winter radish), konbu (kelp), and mustard cabbage.

A close up of a pork dish.
Izakawaya have popped up across Honolulu and are favored for their casual ambience.

When I arrive, Utage Restaurant and Lounge is packed, as it often is during the weekday lunch hour. The restaurant is filled with regulars as well as newcomers who, like me, have been ushered in by friends’ recommendations.

Utage is Japanese for “gathering place.” One of the more popular Okinawan restaurants in Honolulu, it has lived up to its namesake. Located in the heart of Kalihi, Utage has served Okinawan fare since it was opened by owner Jocelyn Koshimoto in 2001.

Pork is the preferred protein in Okinawa. “Every meal begins with pork and ends with pork,” an Okinawan proverb states. In Okinawan fashion, visitors to Utage can choose from a variety of pork-based meals. There is the rafute, or shoyu pork, for which the restaurant is best known. The thick cuts of pork belly are slow-cooked in black sugar and soy sauce before being served on a bed of white rice or in a stir-fry. For those wanting lesser known dishes, there is nakami, thin slices of pig stomach cooked simply with onion and sugar, served in stir-fry or a broth of mushrooms with konyaku, a chewy, gelatinous garnish made from konjac potatoes. Of course, no Okinawan menu would be complete without the signature pig’s feet dish. At Utage, a generous portion of pig’s feet is served in a soup of daikon (winter radish), konbu (kelp), and mustard cabbage.

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